In November 2009, I spent a week in Iraqi Kurdistan, visiting Erbil, Dohuk, Koye and Soulaimanya. This was an amazing week.   The warmth and generosity of the Kurds we met was unparalleled.  Despite this, we were continually reminded of Saddam's oppression of the Kurds, not least in an indescribably chilling torture museum.  Other memories include an 8,000 year old city, 2,500 year old stone friezes, beautiful mountain scenery and Muslim, Christian and Yezidi holy places.  We talked to the director of a legal aid clinic and were invited by a musician to a concert of wonderful Kurdish music.  I have found it very hard to describe all our experiences.   I would have liked to have written a shorter “highlights” piece or something which was more thematic, but both of those approaches would have involved leaving out too much. 

You can read what I have written and look at the photos I took by clicking on the link below.

I have included some practical travel details in end notes.

I would welcome comments.